The Equal-i-zer® Hitch is one of the most versatile hitches for fitting a wide range of trailer frames. Equal-i-zer Hitch works with most V-nose trailers, but may require a modified installation method. The front of the trailer body on a V-nose trailer usually covers up the area on the A-frame where the Sway Control Brackets are installed. The positioning of the brackets can be moved forward up to 5” if there are objects in the way. This gives you a range from 27”-32” to mount the brackets. However, if the V-nose trailer body extends too far forward to mount the brackets in this range, you will need to consider one of the options below.

Option 1

If there are a few inches of space between the frame and trailer floor, you may be able to bolt your brackets around the frame in this location (see figure 1). One alteration you may have to make is to cut the L-Brackets shorter on the top, about three holes down (see figure 2). These holes are almost never used for setting the L-Brackets in place. This is necessary to do, otherwise you might not be able to raise the L-Brackets high enough, as it would come in contact with the trailer floor.

Option 2

If the floor of your trailer rests flush on the top surface of your frame, than you have two other options. Some people have cut out holes or slots in the floor for the bracket components to protrude up through the floor at the 32” mark. The tops of the brackets will then poke through the floor in the interior-front of your trailer, with the top bolt running through the top of these brackets. The bottom bolt should be able to go underneath the A-frame as usual. The Link Plates are 1-1/2” wide by 3/8” thick, while the L-Brackets are 2” wide by 1/2” thick. The tops of the Link Plates protrude 1-1/8” above the top of the frame, while the tops of the L-Brackets generally protrude 3” to 4” above the top of the frame unless they are cut shorter.

When following this option, you may need to make further adjustments to account for the additional thickness of the floor of the trailer. This may mean that you have to bolt the link plates together through a different hole, or you may have to use some metal or hard wood to shim or space the gap between the bolts and the frame.

Option 3

If the above options are not possible to do on your V-nose trailer, then the last remaining option is to weld the Outside Link Plate to the outside surfaces of your A-frame, also done between 29 & 32” from center of hitch ball to center of sway control bracket (see figure 3). You won’t need to use the Inside Link Plates or Bracket Bolts when doing the welding option. When welded on, these Outside Link Plates will be an inch or two lower than if they were positioned otherwise, which is fine. Again, you may still need to cut the tops of the L-Brackets shorter, or cut slits in the floor for the L-Brackets to slide through. But no matter which option you choose, it will require some modification to your trailer and/or to the Equal-i-zer Hitch.

Special Note:

To determine your trailer’s coupler type and bracket position please see images below (These diagrams show the reverse bracket positions based on coupler style):