Step 1 – Getting Things Ready

Park the trailer and tow vehicle on level ground and in line with each other. Chock and uncouple the trailer. Pull tow vehicle ahead about 5 feet to allow working area and set the parking brake.

Ideally, when installing or adjusting the hitch, the tow vehicle and trailer should be loaded just as they will be while traveling. This includes full propane and fresh water tanks, and any other cargo (passengers & gear) the tow vehicle or trailer will carry, including ATVs for toy haulers. If fully-loaded is not possible, set the hitch up for the trailer as-is, and make adjustments later if needed.

Check and inflate the tires on both the tow vehicle and trailer to their proper pressure before setting up the hitch.

If your tow vehicle is equipped with an auto-leveling suspension, or suspension air bags, carefully read and follow the instructions in Appendix C – Installing With Auto-Level/Air Bags on p. 30 as you set up and use your hitch. Also review your tow vehicle owner’s manual for specific information about using your auto-leveling system while towing.

Step 2 – Install the Hitch Ball

INSTALLING

Never exceed the specified weight ratings for the trailer, tow vehicle, hitch, hitch ball, or any other towing equipment.

WARRANTY

Using a hitch ball with a shank longer than 2-3/8” may damage hitch and could void your warranty.

Install a properly-sized hitch ball onto the hitch head. The hitch ball diameter must match the trailer coupler size.

Installing The Ball

Select a ball with a 1-1/4” diameter threaded shank no longer than 2-3/8”. Hitch balls with a longer shank may damage the hitch. If your hitch ball has a smaller diameter shank you must use an appropriate bushing. Make sure that the ball has a weight rating equal to or greater than your trailer’s gross vehicle weight (GVW). Always use a lock washer against the nut, unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer. Torque the nut to the ball manufacturer’s specifications.

Hitch balls require a 1-7/8” socket and a torque wrench capable of approximately 430 ft-lb of torque for installation. Your nearest Equal-i-zer dealership will have the tools needed and will usually install the hitch ball for a reasonable fee.

Step 3 – Attach Hitch Head to Shank

Level the Trailer

Measure to the ground at the front and back of the trailer frame, and adjust the trailer to be parallel to the ground (both front and back measurements should be the same).

With the trailer parallel to the ground, measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler. The top of the hitch ball should initially be placed between 0” and 1” above this height. See Figure 1.

Attach Head to Shank

Insert the adjustable shank into the receiver on the tow vehicle and secure it with the hitch pin and clip.

Insert the spacer rivet with washers into the back of the hitch head to preload the angle of the hitch head. See Figure 2. Start with 5 spacer washers for most setups. If your actual tongue weight is higher than 90% of the hitch’s max tongue weight rating (e.g. TW > 1,440 lb), you may want to start with 6 spacer washers or more as the tongue weight approaches the maximum hitch rating. Some setups with lighter tongue weights may only need 4 spacer washers.

Slide the bolt channel around the shank and hold the hitch head so that the top of the hitch ball is between 0” and 1” above the top of the coupler height.

In some cases, the shank may need to be turned upward, or a specialty length shank may be needed so that the ball can be placed at the correct height. See Figure 3.

Insert a 3/4” shank bolt with a flat washer through the bottom slot in the bolt channel and shank hole to hold the head at the correct height. Slide the flat washer, split (lock) washer, then nut onto the other side of the bolt, and finger-tighten the nut. Repeat this process for the top shank bolt. See Figure 4.

Use a wrench to tighten the angle set bolt until it comes into contact with the shank and lifts the head to where the spacer rivet also comes into solid contact with the shank. Tighten the angle set bolt an additional 1/2 turn. The hitch head should be angled down slightly. See Figure 5.

The shank bolts will be fully tightened at the end of the setup and adjustment process.

Step 4 – Sway Bracket Assembly

Sway Bracket Location

Measure from the center of the coupler along the trailer frame, and place a mark at 32” on both sides. This is the center mark for the sway bracket assembly.

Check around the trailer frame and make sure that there are no gas lines, brake lines, or electrical wiring that could be affected by the installation of the link plates. If so, make sure these are rerouted or avoided and will not be disrupted or damaged by the link plate installation.

Placing the sway brackets centered at 32” back puts the least amount of stress on the trailer and hitch components, and provides the most comfortable ride. Sway brackets should be placed at 32” whenever possible.

In some cases where there is an obstruction at 32” that cannot be easily moved, like a battery rail or propane tank support, the link plates may be moved forward toward the coupler to a minimum distance no closer than 27” from the coupler center. See Figure 6.

CAUTION

Do not use an impact wrench to tighten link plate or L-bracket bolts.

Assemble Link Plates

Insert two 5/8” x 1-3/4” bolts through the outside link plate from the back side. See Figure 7-A. The head of the bolts should fit completely inside the pocket on the back.

Insert one 5/8” x 3-3/4” bolt through the single hole on the outside link plate, and the single hole on the inside link plate. See Figure 7-B. The head of the bolt should fit completely into the front pocket of the outside link plate.

Slide on a split washer, and then thread on the 5/8” nut a few turns.

Identify your coupler style. See Figure 8.

Top-mount

If your trailer has a top-mounted coupler, place the link plates so the single hole is above the frame, and the L-bracket studs are toward the top of the frame on the outside. See Figure 9.

Bottom-mount

If your trailer has a bottom-mounted coupler, is a V-nose trailer, or has some other obstacle that makes installing the link plates in the upright position difficult, install the link plates upside down so the single hole is below the frame, and the L-bracket studs are toward the bottom of the frame. See Figure 10.

Insert the second bolt through the link plates, slide on a split washer, then thread a 5/8” nut onto the bolt.

See also: Equal-i-zer Hitch 2-Minute Tech – Link Plate Installation For Bottom-Mount Couplers

There should not be a gap between the trailer frame and the link plate bolts above or below the frame. See Figure 11. Move electrical or propane lines if necessary.

Pinch the link plates tight to the sides of the frame and hand-tighten the nuts on the inside. See Figure 12.

Tightening only one nut without first pinching the link plates to the frame may cause the inside link plate to bend when torqued completely. It may also give you a torque wrench reading that indicates the link plates are tight, even though they are not. See Figure 13.

L-bracket Installation

To begin setup, slide the L-brackets onto the link plate studs with the studs in the two center holes, with the short spring arm rest facing away from the trailer. They may need to be adjusted up or down later to get good weight distribution.

Thread on the nyloc nuts and tighten them. See Figures 14 and 15.

When the weight distribution setup is complete these nuts should be torqued to 130 ft‑lb.

Step 5 – Spring Arm Setup

TIGHTENING

Never tow with loose socket bolts. Tighten socket bolts to a minimum of 60 ft-lb torque before each towing session.

NOTICE

Do not pound directly on the sockets to move them. Pounding may cause the sockets to crack or chip. Use only the lever force of the spring arm to move tight sockets. Loosen the socket bolt if required. Retighten them once the socket has been moved.

SETUP

Insert the spring arms into the sockets in the hitch head. The arms for the 16K model are side specific. They are notched slightly off-center, and should be inserted into the socket with the notch on the inside, and with the label facing outward.

Insert the socket pin through the hole in the socket and spring arm, and secure it with the socket pin clip. You may need to use the spring arm as a lever to spread the sockets open, which will allow the spring arms to be lifted and placed onto the L-bracket more easily.

Step 6 – Weight Distribution Setup

Before starting, turn off or disable auto-level systems. See Appendix C.

Good weight distribution is a critical component of the Equal‑i‑zer hitch setup to get the best performance from your hitch. Every tow vehicle and trailer combination will react differently to weight distribution.

NOTICE

The 16K Equal-i-zer hitch for heavy duty pickups requires a weight distribution setup different than that of other Equal-i-zer hitch models. Higher Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) requires more weight on the rear axle of the tow vehicle for increased traction and stability while towing. Heavy duty trucks are built with the increased capacity to carry this weight. Refer to your tow vehicle’s owner manual for more information.

To correctly set up weight distribution you must take three measurements at the front of your tow vehicle. See Figure 16. First, measure without the trailer coupled. Next, measure with the trailer coupled, but with no weight distribution. Third, measure with the trailer coupled and the spring arms tensioned.

Start by measuring the distance from the ground to the wheel well directly above the front axle with the trailer uncoupled. Measure both driver and passenger sides, and use the average of these two.

Record this on line A of the weight distribution setup table.

Back the tow vehicle to the trailer and lower the coupler onto the ball. Lock the coupler and retract the tongue jack until it raises off the ground about 1” so the full tongue weight of the trailer is resting on the hitch.

Measure the tow vehicle height again exactly above the front axle, to the same point that you measured to earlier when uncoupled. Record this on line B of the weight distribution setup table on page 16.

With the tow vehicle still coupled to the trailer, use the tongue jack to lift both vehicles until you can swing the spring arms into place over the L‑brackets. See Figure 17. Then retract the jack.

If you reach the top of the jack before the spring arms will swing into position, you can use the Snap-up Lever to lift the spring arms up and onto the L-brackets. Use the L-pins to secure the spring arms on the L-brackets. See Figures 18-19.

With the spring arms resting on the L-bracket and the trailer and tow vehicle in line with each other, check to make sure there is a minimum of 3” from the end of the spring arms to the center of the link plates. See Figure 20. If necessary, unload the spring arms, then move and retighten the sway bracket assembly.

With the trailer coupled and weight distribution engaged (spring arms in place and jack retracted), remeasure the front wheel well height exactly as done before for lines A and B. Record this new measurement on line C of the weight distribution setup table on page 16.

Step 7 – Weight Distribution Adjustments

WARNING

Weight distribution is only one of many things that influence sway. The operator is responsible for making necessary adjustments to all contributing factors in order to minimize sway.

Good adjustment:

You have most likely achieved good weight distribution adjustment if your measurement on line C of the weight distribution setup table shows that the front wheel well measurement is 1/2 to 2/3 (50% to 65%) back to the original uncoupled measurement. See line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table (p. 16) and Figure 21 (p. 18). Line C should never be more than 2/3 (65%) back to line A.

You can view a video of the weight distribution adjustment process at youtube.com/equalizerhitch.

WARNING

Over or under adjusted weight distribution decreases tow vehicle stability.

Under or Over-Adjustment:

If the hitch is transferring too little or too much weight you must make adjustments to the hitch setup. For changes during the initial setup we recommend adding or removing spacer washers first to try and keep the spring arms parallel with the trailer frame. This gives you more adjustment options later if needed, and may also reduce some noise.

Once the maximum (8) or minimum (4) number of spacer washers has been reached, further adjustments can be made by raising or lowering the L‑brackets. Minor adjustments later for changes in loading can usually be done by moving only the L-brackets.

The distance from the tow vehicle rear axle to the hitch ball significantly affects how the tow vehicle reacts to weight distribution adjustments. The same washer or L-bracket change will have varying results on different vehicles.

Under-adjustment occurs when there is not enough weight being returned to the front axles of the tow vehicle. See Figure 22.

If the measurement for line C is still higher than the calculated halfway point, you need more weight distribution adjustment, (see line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table, Figure 16). With an under-adjusted setup your hitch is not unloading the rear axle sufficiently, giving back as much steering and braking control as it could, nor is it providing as much friction as it could to help reduce trailer sway.

To correct under-adjustment you must add more weight distribution force to the hitch by adding spacer washers, or raising the L-brackets.

If this is the initial setup, use the tongue jack to unload the spring arms. Remove the spring arms from the hitch head. Uncouple the trailer and pull the tow vehicle forward. Remove the hitch head and add a spacer washer. Repeat Step 6 and 7 to readjust and check weight distribution.

If you have reached the maximum number of spacer washers, or if adjusting temporarily due to a change in vehicle loading, use the tongue jack to unload the spring arms. Raise the L-brackets one hole. Move the spring arms back over the L-brackets and retract the tongue jack. Remeasure the wheel wells and check for proper weight distribution.

Repeat Steps 6 and 7 until the measurements show that the hitch is distributing weight well.

Over-adjustment occurs when there is too much weight being transferred to the front axles of the tow vehicle. See Figure 23.

If C is more than 2/3 (65%) back to A, you need less weight distribution adjustment (see line C on Weight Distribution Setup Table, Figure 16).

Over-adjustment is a very dangerous situation where loss of control and jackknifing is possible, especially in wet or slick road conditions and/or with heavy trailers.

To correct over-adjustment you must take some of the weight distribution force out of the hitch by removing spacer washers, or lowering the L‑brackets.

If this is the initial set up, use the tongue jack to unload the spring arms. Remove the spring arms from the hitch head. Uncouple the trailer and pull vehicle forward. Remove the hitch head and remove a spacer washer. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 to readjust and check weight distribution.

If you have reached the minimum number of spacer washers, or if adjusting temporarily due to a change in vehicle loading, use the tongue jack to unload the spring arms. Lower the L-brackets one hole. Move the spring arms back over the L-brackets and retract the tongue jack. Remeasure the wheel wells and check for proper weight distribution.

Repeat Steps 6 and 7 until the measurements show that the hitch is distributing weight well.

Step 8 – Trailer Pitch Adjustment

After achieving a good weight distribution setup you may need to adjust the pitch (angle or attitude) of the trailer. Step back and look at the trailer to see if the front appears to be tipped up or down excessively.

Measure the front and rear of the trailer again at the same points you did when setting the trailer parallel to the ground in Step 3. Record these measurements on the Trailer Pitch Adjustment chart. See Figure 24.

Find the difference between the highest and lowest heights.

If the difference between the highest and lowest measurement is 1-1/4” or more, try adjusting the hitch ball height. If it is less than 1-1/4” different, complete Step 9 and tow a short distance with this setup to see how it handles before making any adjustments.

If the higher measurement is the front of the trailer, move the hitch head down one hole position on the shank. If the lower measurement is the front of the trailer, move the hitch head up one hole position on the shank.

Adjustments made to the ball height affect how weight is distributed. Moving it up slightly decreases the amount of weight distribution you get from a particular setup. Moving it down slightly increases the weight distribution from that same setup.

After making an adjustment to the ball height, return to Step 6 and check the weight distribution measurements again. Readjust the weight distribution if necessary until it falls within the guidelines. Recheck the trailer pitch again to see the difference made by moving the hitch ball height. You may need to try several setups before you get one that achieves good weight distribution and trailer pitch.

Step 9 – Final Tightening

WARNING

Do not tow your trailer until all bolts and nuts have been checked and properly tightened, and all pins and clips are securely in place.

Towing with loose bolts for an extended period of time can cause abnormal stress on the hitch resulting in accident, severe injury, and property damage.

After you have made proper adjustments to the hitch to give your setup good weight distribution and trailer pitch, all bolts on the hitch must be tightened completely.

Use your tongue jack to lift the trailer and tow vehicle, and disconnect the spring arms. Lower the tongue jack and uncouple the trailer from the tow vehicle. Pull the tow vehicle forward a few feet to give yourself working room to tighten the hitch bolts.

Remove the pins and clips from the spring arms, and remove the spring arms from the hitch head. Remove the hitch pin and clip. Remove the hitch head and shank from the receiver, turn the assembly upside-down, and place it back into the receiver tube. Replace the hitch pin to secure it temporarily.

Use the torque wrench to tighten both 3/4” shank bolts to 320 ft-lb.

Snug the angle set bolt to the shank again if needed. Do not overtighten the angle set bolt.

Check that all link plate bolts are torqued to 130 ft-lb. Check the nuts holding the L-brackets to make sure they are torqued to 130 ft-lb. The socket bolts should be set between 60 ft‑lb and 100 ft‑lb.

Remove the hitch pin, and return the head and shank to the upright position. Replace the spring arms, and secure them with the socket pins and clips. Couple the trailer again to the tow vehicle, and put the spring arms back in place on the L-brackets. Secure each with an L-pin.

You are now ready to take the trailer out for a tow. Remember to connect the breakaway cable, safety chains, and electrical cables. Make sure your trailer brake control is correctly adjusted. Retract the jack completely. Tow carefully at first and pay attention to how it feels. Follow the Troubleshooting Guide in Appendix A which suggests ways that can help improve your towing experience if needed.

Step 10 – Regular Maintenance

The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and well lubricated with a good quality multipurpose or bearing grease. Lubricate the surfaces where the arm sockets rub against the top and bottom plates of the head. See Figure 25. We recommend Equal-i-zer high performance lubricant.

Friction surfaces should be lubricated before each trip. Check for damage or abnormal wear at the beginning of each trip and replace if necessary. Clean dirt and road grit from all friction surfaces regularly.

All nuts and bolts should be checked before each trip and be tightened or replaced if necessary.

Pay special attention to the angle set bolt. There is a break-in period unique to each hitch and towing configuration. With use, the spacer washers and rivet may compact slightly leaving a small gap between the angle set bolt and the shank. The bolt should be checked carefully through the break-in period and retightened as explained in Step 9. You will notice that over time the need to retighten the angle set bolt will decrease, but you should still check it regularly before each trip as part of your hook-up routine.

See also: How To Check And Maintain Your Angle Set Bolt

Store your hitch out of the weather when not in use. Keep it clean and free from rust. From time to time, use a good quality rust-inhibiting spray paint to touch up the finish and keep it looking good. Do not paint over the warning stickers. If the warning stickers become worn or unreadable, contact Equal-i-zer hitch for free replacements.

Step 11 – Hitching Up

• Chock the wheels on both sides of the trailer.
• Place the Equal-i-zer hitch head in the receiver hitch, and pin it into place.
• Back the tow vehicle up to the trailer, and align the hitch ball directly under the socket of the trailer coupler.
• Set the parking brake.
• Insert the Equal-i-zer hitch spring arms into the hitch head on both sides, and pin them into place. See Figure 26.
• Spread the spring arms so that they are wide enough to clear the L-brackets as they are raised into place.
• Lower the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball, and latch the coupler so that it’s locked onto the ball. See Figure 27.

Using the tongue jack, raise the trailer and back of the tow vehicle together. See Figure 28. As you raise them, you will see the far ends of the spring arms raise up in relation to the L-brackets. Raise the trailer until the ends of the spring arms are high enough to be pushed into place over the L-brackets.

If your jack is fully extended, you may use the Snap-up Lever to lift the arms into place. Using a block or a jack extension foot, like the Fastway® FLIP™ automatic jack foot, may be helpful to get the spring arms high enough to easily move them into place.

Swing the spring arms into place over the L-brackets, and secure them with the L-pins.

Retract the jack, lowering both the trailer and tow vehicle together, until the jack is completely retracted. See Figure 29.

The spring arms are now engaged, and are distributing weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle, as well as providing the Equal-i-zer hitch’s exclusive Integrated 4-Point Sway Control™ protection.

The hitch is now ready to tow.

Secure the safety chains, breakaway cable, and wiring harness. Remove the wheel chocks, and make any other necessary preparations before towing.

See also: How To Hitch and Unhitch Your Equal-i-zer Hitch

Step 12 – Unhitching

• Maneuver the trailer into the desired position.
• Set the parking brake, and chock the wheels on both sides of the trailer.
• Unhook the safety chains, breakaway cable, and wiring harness from the tow vehicle.

With the trailer still coupled to the tow vehicle, extend the tongue jack on the trailer to lift both trailer and tow vehicle enough that the weight is lifted off the end of the Equal-i-zer hitch spring arms, and they are allowed to move freely side to side, without being held by the friction on the L-bracket plate. See Figure 30. A block or jack extension foot like the Fastway FLIP automatic jack foot, may be helpful to lift the vehicles high enough to release the tension on the spring arms.

Remove the L-pins.

Swing the spring arms outward, away from the frame, enough that they will easily clear the L-brackets as they are lowered.

Retract the tongue jack, and lower both trailer and tow vehicle back down until enough trailer tongue weight is resting on the hitch ball that the coupler latch can be released. See Figure 31. This is usually indicated by the top of the shank slightly dropping away from the top of the receiver hitch tube.

Release the coupler latch of the trailer.

Use the tongue jack to lift the trailer off of the hitch ball. See Figure 32.

Move the tow vehicle away from the trailer.

Unpin the Equal-i-zer hitch spring arms from the sockets in the hitch head, and remove the arms.

Store the spring arms and hitch head in a secure location protected from moisture and theft.

See also: How To Hitch and Unhitch Your Equal-i-zer Hitch