Yes, the Equal-i-zer hitch is designed to allow you to back up and take tight turns with the hitch hooked up. Just be sure the frame brackets are installed in the correct range on the trailer frame (27"-32" from the center of your coupler) so the arms have plenty of room (2"-3" after the bracket) to move during tight turns.
It is important your hitch has a weight rating high enough that it never exceeds either of the two weight ratings (max trailer weight and max tongue weight).
Max trailer weight is pretty straight forward. Each trailer has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) which is the maximum weight of the trailer when it’s fully loaded. You want to make sure your hitch has a max trailer weight higher than your trailer GVWR. Some trailers won’t list a GVWR but instead an Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) and Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC). The sum of those two numbers is the GVWR.
The max tongue weight rating often gets disregarded, but because most trailer’s tongue weights end up being between 10% and 15% of the overall trailer weight, you’re more likely to exceed this limit on the hitch before you hit the max trailer weight rating.
Determining you maximum loaded tongue weight is a little less black and white than total trailer weight. Generally, trailers will have a listed tongue weight or hitch weight. Keep in mind these are the dry or unloaded numbers and usually don’t include the weight of battery or propane tanks. The tongue weight will increase and can vary depending on how you position the cargo weight in the trailer. To know exactly what your tongue weight is, you will need to weigh it, after you load your trailer. However, comparing the relationship between the dry trailer weight and dry tongue weight of your trailer, and factoring in how you plan to load the trailer, you can make a reasonably good prediction. Because you often won’t know your exact tongue weight before you purchase a hitch, it’s a smart practice to purchase a larger hitch, providing a higher tongue weight.
It’s also a good idea to factor in the weight you will be carrying in your tow vehicle behind the rear axle. That weight is going to affect your vehicle the same way the tongue weight of your trailer does. It weighs down the back and initiates a teeter-totter effect over your rear axle that lifts the front of your tow vehicle. If you expect your weight distribution hitch to help you distribute that weight in addition the weight of the trailer, then you need to make sure that that cargo weight plus your trailer’s tongue weight combined remain below the hitch’s tongue weight rating.
Yes, the Equal-i-zer hitch is compatible with surge breaks. The rigid frame brackets allow the spring arms to slide back and forth freely so that they don’t interfere with the function of the surge brake mechanism.
Use your tongue jack to release tension off the spring arms prior to trying to slide them out of place. After removing the spring arms, you can lower the trailer back down and unlatch the coupler from the hitch ball as you would on any other ball mount. Watch this video to learn more:
The friction surfaces of the head should be kept clean and well lubricated with a good quality multi-purpose or bearing grease. These are the surfaces where the arm sockets rub against the top and bottom plates of the head.
It is not necessary to apply grease to the L-brackets on any hitch model.
This blog provides step-by-step instructions on how to properly lube your Equal-i-zer hitch: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/...
Whenever you’re changing tow vehicles, even if it’s a similar vehicle, you’ll be best served by running through the complete adjustment section of the Installation Guide. This will ensure your Equal-i-zer is adjusted correctly, providing superior weight distribution and sway control. Begin with page 10 in your Equal-i-zer hitch Owners Manual.
1. Back the Equal-i-zer hitch ball under the trailer coupler.
2. Couple and lock the trailer.
3. Use the tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue and tow vehicle until you can swing the arms into place over the trailer brackets. (If the arms are difficult to lift, continue raising the tongue jack, until the arms are even or slightly above the trailer brackets.)
4. Pin the arms into place with the Snap L Pin, and retract the jack.
For a helpful video and infographic, read our blog: https://www.equalizerhitch.com...
The standard shank included with the Equal-i-zer hitch offers up to 3” drop/7” rise. Drop and rise are measured from the inside top of the receiver tube to the base of the hitch ball/top of the hitch head. To determine how much rise or drop a given truck and trailer combination requires you need two measurements. First from the ground up to the inside top of the receiver tube on the tow vehicle, and second, from the ground up to the top of the trailer coupler with the trailer level. Needed rise or drop = (Receiver height + 3) – coupler height. A positive number would be the needed drop, negative indicates rise.
If you find you need more than a 3" drop or a 7" rise, we have specialty shanks with different drops and rises, allowing flexibility with both receiver and trailer coupler heights.
The Equal-i-zer hitch is the best performing sway control hitch on the market. If you’re feeling sway after setting up the hitch, there’s a good chance there are some minor adjustments needed to improve performance.
Most likely there isn’t enough tension on the spring arms or not enough weight transferred back up to the front axle of the tow vehicle. This can be remedied by adding spacer washers, raising L-brackets, and/or lowering the hitch ball. It’s a good idea to recheck the three front end measurements from page 16 in the Equal-i-zer hitch manual before making any changes.
You have several options for obtaining replacement parts for any of our products.